Some of the strings I raised in that first video had some problems. In this video I talk about some of them.
The pole had lots of irregularities. Since it was a tree I harvested and removed the branches, there were many places for the strings to catch. Cracks in the bark, the stubs of the removed branches, and more provided places for the strings to catch when the wind blew.
Too Much Slack
When I raised the strings and tied them off, I left too much slack in the twine. This allows the strings to move around a lot, catching in the irregularities of the pole used as the central pole for raising and lowering the strings.
By shortening the strings, the twine no longer catches on the pole, so it can’t be worn down by movement.
Let me know if you’ve run into similar challenges, and what you’ve done to overcome the challenges. I’d love to learn along with you. Please post your thoughts in the comments below.
At some point, most home brewers get excited about hops and the idea of growing your own hops to use in beer. Others, who have a thumb more green than mine, plant their hops and cultivate them carefully. Luckily my mother-in-law is an avid gardener and was interested in growing hops.
If you select the right variety for your area, hops will grow like weeds. With minimal maintenance, you will probably be able to harvest enough hops to play with for several batches.
Harvesting hops by hand is labor-intensive. I spent about 3 hours picking by hand and did not even fill a paper grocery bag. By weight, I wound up with about 4 pounds of wet hops. This is probably main argument for purchasing the hops you use in your beer, unless you enjoy having an excuse to be outside working with your hands.
This is even without including the time you can spend babying the plants while they grow.
Unknown Acid Levels
Those of us growing hops for fun do not have the equipment to analyze the alpha acid content of our hops. So, you will be working with unknowns. You can rub, smell and guess to estimate how it will affect your beer, but you won’t really know like you do with commercial hops. This is one of the aspects that can make your beer fun and interesting.
If you look for advice for using fresh hops, you can estimate 5 to 6 times as much hops are needed for similar flavor and aroma levels. But that’s still just a guess.
I know hops don’t weight much, but I was truly shocked by how much volume was required to make a seemingly small quantity of hops. I should have taken a picture, but I had to pack hops into a 2-quart pitcher just to get 11 ounces. Without packing, I’m pretty sure 11 ounces would have filled up a gallon container.
Fresh hops will soak up a mess of your beer. Knowing this beforehand, I inserted my large straining bag so I could squeeze the hops at the end. The bag is large enough that I placed my immersion chiller inside the bag with the hops so I could stand the temperature when I squeezed the bag.
If you use wet hops, you will need to have a strategy to minimize the loss, or just accept the loss with as much grace as possible.
Don’t let these problems hold you back. Experiment, try things, over-do it and see what you get. I learned a lot about brewing while making my harvest ale.
11 gallons into the fermenter:
12 pounds pale 2-row
6 pounds dark Munich
1 pound special B
6 ounces crystal 10 L
11 ounces homegrown, fresh cascade hops (60 min)
11 ounces homegrown, fresh cascade hops (15 min)
11 ounces homegrown, fresh cascade hops (0 min)
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